Washington is one of my favorite cities, a perfect blend of majestic but personal, deeply historical but cutting-edge contemporary, kinetic but contemplative, sometimes gridlocked but relentlessly in motion, meaningful and substantive but often exuberantly joyful. My new colleague Elizabeth Evans, who will be arriving in Auckland shortly, shares below her insider’s perspectives on our iconic Capital in this latest installment in my series of guides to great places to visit in the United States.

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A CITY FOR ALL SEASONS

by Elizabeth Evans

The abundance of festivals, free museums and tours make Washington, DC an extremely family friendly city easily explored on the city’s metro transit train and bus system or by a network of rental bikes and cars. Adults can revel in the city’s vibrant sports, bar, and restaurant scene.

This is a city where things happen. It is a city of past ghosts and current ambition. People visit DC to learn national history, but they live and work here because they want to be a part of the force that writes it. The National Mall, the Washington Monument, and the Lincoln, Jefferson, Roosevelt, Vietnam, and Martin Luther King Jr Memorials remind visitors and residents alike that DC isn’t just a city, it is also a symbol of our national character and values.

The Lincoln Memorial, Washington Monument, and United States Capital Building greet visitors and commuters entering the city across the Potomac River. Click through for image source.

Lincoln Memorial, Washington Monument, and Capitol Building greet visitors and commuters entering the city across the Potomac River.

The White House is the seat of the executive branch of government and President’s residence. Click through for image source.

The White House is the seat of the executive branch of government as well as the President’s residence.

President Barack Obama speaks at the ceremonial swearing-in at the U.S. Capitol during the 57th Presidential Inauguration in Washington, D.C. (AP Image)

Per tradition, the members of the three branches of our Government assembled in public outside the U.S. Capitol for the swearing-in of Barack Obama as President.

Built along the banks of the Potomac River and Anacostia rivers in a purposeful crossroads between northern and southern interests, Washington’s physical size is approximately half the size of Wellington at 68 square miles, carved out of land donated by the state of Maryland. It was founded in 1791, named after President George Washington, and constitutes a unique “federal district” created specifically in the Constitution to be the seat of government.

The population of the District of Columbia itself is approximately 553,500. If you include the entire Metro area, the population reaches just over 5.8 million. (The “Washington Metropolitan Area” refers to the District of Columbia as well as surrounding towns and cities including Alexandria, Virginia and Baltimore, Maryland.)

Buddhists monks and other tourists walk the circuit around the tidal basin and the Jefferson Memorial.  Water is incorporated into many of the monuments and memorials in the area around the national mall. Click through for image source.

Walking the circuit around the Tidal Basin and Jefferson Memorial. Water is incorporated into many of the monuments and memorials of the National Mall.

Every Spring the city is overtaken by a love of all things pink as soon as the capital’s cherry trees begin to blossom. Tourists flock to the city to engage in Hanami, the Japanese tradition of gazing at and contemplating the beauty of cherry blossoms in spring. The cherry trees, which line the Tidal Basin and frame the Washington Monument and Jefferson Memorial, were a gift of friendship to the United States in 1912 from the people of Japan.

In Japan the flowering cherry tree, or “Sakura,” is an exalted flowering plant. The beauty of the cherry blossom is a potent symbol equated with the evanescence of human life and epitomizes the transformation of Japanese culture throughout the ages. DC celebrates this generous gift every Spring with the annual Cherry Blossom Festival featuring boat races, a parade, and cultural presentations from the Japanese embassy.

The space shuttle Discovery is the centerpiece of the James S. McDonnell Space Hangar at the National Air and Space Museum's Steven F. Udvar-Hazy Center in Chantilly, Va.  Click through for image source.

The Space Shuttle Discovery is the centerpiece of the James S. McDonnell Space Hangar at the National Air and Space Museum.

When visitors and residents aren’t gazing at the blossoms, Spring offers the perfect weather for exploring the many buildings and collections of the Smithsonian Institute. Founded in 1846, the Smithsonian is the world’s largest museum and research complex, consisting of 19 museums and galleries, the National Zoological Park, and nine research facilities.

One of the best aspects for visitors is that every Smithsonian facility admits visitors free of charge. A Scottish scientist James Smithsonian left nearly half a million dollars to the foundation of the museums in 1826 for the purpose of “increasing knowledge among men.” All of the museums are impressive, from the stunning Freer Gallery of Art to fascinating science and natural history museums.

Click through for image source. The Apollo 11 lunar module.

The Apollo 11 lunar module on display at the Smithsonian.

In fact, as a child, my favorite way to spend a Saturday was with my family exploring the dinosaur bones, insect zoo, fossils, and fist-sized precious gems of the Natural History Museum, including the iconic Hope Diamond.

My son, on the other hand, always chooses to visit the National Air & Space Museum’s two locations (on the National Mall and in Chantilly, Virginia) where he can see aviation artifacts such as the Space Shuttle Discovery, the Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird (the fastest jet in the world), the Boeing Dash 80 (the prototype of the 707), and the Boeing B-29 Superfortress Enola Gay.

Smithsonian Museum of the American Indian. Click through for image source.

The Smithsonian’s impressive Museum of the American Indian.

One of the newest editions to the Smithsonian collection is the Smithsonian Museum of the American Indian. Even more than just a compelling feat of design and cultural diversity, inside the museum’s distinctive exterior lies one of the best food courts in the city, the  Mitsitam Native Foods Café.

The café, named for the Delaware and Piscataway peoples’ expression meaning, “let’s eat” features Native foods found throughout the Western Hemisphere, including the Northern Woodlands, South America, the Northwest Coast, Meso America and the Great Plains. Each of the five food stations depict regional lifeways related to cooking techniques, ingredients, and flavors found in both traditional and contemporary dishes. The fry bread, while less than healthy, is not to be missed.

New Year’s and the Fourth of July are a time for celebration in the city when fireworks illuminate the U.S. Capital Building and the Washington Monument. Click through for image source.

Each year Washington hosts grand fireworks displays on the Mall for New Year’s and the Fourth of July.

A warm summer night or refreshingly cool summer sunrise are the best times to jog, stroll, or wheel around the National Mall. On many evenings, city parks project movies for picnickers to enjoy and free concerts mark the start of the weekend in the National Gallery of Art’s Sculpture Garden. One of the best nights of summer is the Fourth of July celebration on the National Mall, featuring American artists like Dolly Parton and the United States Marine Corps Band.

DC is a city of monuments and memorials. These large stone structures offer tangible manifestations of American values, triumphs, and heartbreaks. In addition to serving as commemorative art, the memorials and monuments of the National Mall have born witness to great moments in American history.

It was on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial, gazing across the reflection pool and a crowd of 250,000 people, that Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. delivered his famous “I Have a Dream” speech, calling for an end to racism in the United States. Click through for image source.

Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. delivered his iconic “I Have a Dream” speech from the steps of the Lincoln Memorial to a crowd of 250,000 civil rights advocates.

The National Mall and Memorial Parks are part of the National Park Service and are home to an array of monuments highlighting the history of the United States. One of the largest is the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial, honoring the 32nd President and the era he represents, leading visitors through the Great Depression and the years leading up to WWII.

The most recent addition to the park is the Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial. After two decades of planning, the monument opened in August 2011. Dr. King is the first African-American honored with a monument on the National Mall. The size and grandeur of the monument captures the inspiration that Dr. King represents in ongoing efforts to create a more perfect Union.

Click through for image source. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Monument.

Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. Monument.

Different styles and movements in art have been used to honor leaders and remember those touched by war and other sacrifice. Neoclassical structures like the Jefferson and Lincoln memorials use Greek and Roman inspired elements to represent the democratic ideals and strength of the men they commemorate.

The Vietnam Veterans Memorial, designed by Asian American architect Maya Lin, uses an abstract design to honor the men and women who served when their nation called upon them. The World War II Memorial honors the service of sixteen million members of the Armed Forces of the U.S. during the war. The monument is framed by fifty six granite columns, split between two half circles that create a Rainbow Pool representing the nation’s unprecedented unity during wartime.

Click through for image source. The Jefferson Memorial at sunset is the sight of many marriage proposals including my own!

The Jefferson Memorial at sunset is the site of many marriage proposals, including my own!

American values and laws are carved in epic proportions onto functional buildings throughout the city, as well as onto adorning monuments. One example is the Newseum, an interactive museum dedicated to journalism history. Chiseled on a 75-foot tablet on the outside of the building is the First Amendment, by which the People prohibit Congress from abridging the freedoms of speech and of the press.

Another example is the Old Post Office, which remains one of DC’s most visited attractions. Inscribed on the sides is a poem by former Harvard President, Dr. Charles W. Eliot. Titled “The Letter,” the poem extolls the importance of the mail system:

Messenger of Sympathy and Love
Servant of Parted Friends
Consoler of the Lonely
Bond of the Scattered Family
Enlarger of the Common Life
Carrier of News and Knowledge
Instrument of Trade and Industry
Promoter of Mutual Acquaintance
Of Peace and of Goodwill Among Men and Nations.

The soldiers of the Iwo Jima Marine Corps Memorial guard the Virginia entrance to the city. Click through for image source.

The valiant warriors of the Iwo Jima Marine Corps Memorial forever guard the Virginia entrance to the city, a reminder of the sacrifices on which liberty rests.

No visit to DC is complete without viewing some of the most iconic buildings – the White House and the U.S. Capitol building. Located at 1600 Pennslyvania Avenue, the White House has been the official residence and workplace of every U.S. President since John Adams in 1800. Visits for groups are available can be arranged through the New Zealand Embassy in DC.

The U.S. Capitol building is another architectural and historic masterpiece. In 1792, Thomas Jefferson held a design competition and awarded amateur architect William Thorton the prize of $500 and a lot in the federal city to construct the capitol building. In 1960, the building was declared a national historic landmark. Visitors can tour the Capitol, viewing its impressive collection of art, sculpture, and visit the chambers where both the U.S House of Representatives and the U.S. Senate sit for hearings.

More than just the quintessential collection of America’s books, the Library of Congress hosts cultural events such as concerts and readings and serves as a venue for elegant diplomatic and congressional receptions.Click through for image source.

The Library of Congress Reading Room, one of the most beautiful DC interiors.

One of my favorite weeks of the year in DC is Howard University Homecoming. An historic African American college located in the Petworth neighborhood, Howard University boasts students known for being some of the best-dressed in the United States.

Howard is not a school where students wear pajamas to class. They dress to impress, and never more so then when it comes to attending the school’s step team competitions or the drum line’s Homecoming half time show.

The star of Howard Homecoming is the marching band’s drum major who keeps time and leads the band in their half time performance. Click through for image source.

The star of Howard Homecoming is the marching band’s drum major, who keeps time and leads the half time performance.

Four of the divine nine historically African American fraternities and sororities, now known for their public service activities and step teams, were founded at Howard University in the early 1900s.

These fraternities and sororities used words, sounds, and movement to demonstrate allegiance to their organizations and in so doing created the dynamic performance style now known as “stepping.” (DC is also home to the group Step Afrika, which the Embassy sent to tour Samoa during the country’s 50th anniversary celebrations last year.)

 

The expression “step to the yard” is used to describe the experience of stepping in a large group in a public space, such as a campus green. The yard is a place where students can step together in unison, or battle by groups taking turns and escalating the difficulty and intensity of their routines.

Though stepping is traditionally aligned with college fraternities, the art form has become popular with high, middle, and elementary school students across the United States, as well as in churches and community-based organizations.  Latino and Asian American Greek-letter organizations have recently begun to embrace stepping and compete in step dance competitions.

Adam’s Morgan Day kicks off the first of many D.C. fall festivals in September with a variety of cultural hitting the streets for the crowds to enjoy. Click through for image source.

Adam’s Morgan Day kicks off the first of many DC fall festivals in September with a variety of cultural groups hitting the streets for crowds to enjoy.

A special neighborhood the you should be sure to visit – Adams Morgan – lies between the posh surroundings of Dupont Circle and Massachusetts Avenue’s Embassy Row and the dynamic marketplace energy of Mount Pleasant and Columbia Heights. Famous for its bars, Ethiopian restaurants, and falafel shops, Adams Morgan is the live music lover’s paradise.

Celebrating the many sounds and communities of the city, the neighborhood’s bars offer everything from Korean Karaoke to performances by West African drum group the Akoma Drummers. For bluegrass patrons flock to Madam’s Organ, a dive bar offering half price beer to all patron’s who sport the same red hair as the iconic female figure painted on the side of the building.

Click through for image source. The inside décor of Madam’s Organ.

The inside décor of Madam’s Organ.

Navigating the city’s streets is fun and interesting. Diagonal avenues cutting across the city are named for the 50 States. Grid streets carry alphabet and number names. During college, I spent my nights on M street in Georgetown, a historic neighborhood known for the like named University’s neo gothic buildings and its many shopping opportunities. Georgetown’s cobblestoned streets and charming brick facades balance with a bustling waterfront bar scene featuring boats that anchor next to outdoor bars and dinner cruises.

Heading northwest, visitors can experience a trip to what is often called the spiritual home of the nation – the National Cathedral. When President Washington commissioned Major Pierre L’Enfant to create a visionary plan for the nation’s capital, Pierre first imagined a “great church for national purposes.” It was not constructed until 100 years later. The Cathedral still serves as a place of worship, welcoming people of all faiths to service.  It has been the location for memorial services of nearly every President since its foundation was incorporated in 1893.

Click through for image source. The National Cathedral.

The National Cathedral.

On U Street – the corridor made famous by performers like Duke Ellington – people gather and talk about city news and personalities in Ben’s Chili Bowl, a local joint beloved by residents of all ages. You can find everything on U Street from hip hop battles at the U Turn club to vintage sunglasses at one of the street’s many boutiques to food to fill your belly and soul at restaurants like Busboys & Poets.

Further East, the H Street neighborhood has been undergoing a renaissance in the last 10 years. Visitors can listen to indie bands at the Red & the Black, putt-putt indoors at the H Street Country Club, and watch cutting edge performing arts at the Atlas Performing Arts Centre.

Click through for image source. President Barak Obama, made sure to visit landmark Ben’s Chili Bowl after being elected.

President Barack Obama stops at the landmark Ben’s Chili Bowl.

Accessible on the city’s Metro rail transit system, no DC experience is complete without a visit to Arlington Cemetery. Still a working cemetery that holds more than 7,000 funerals a year, Arlington is also the final resting place for President John F. Kennedy, other historic American figures, and more than 400,000 active duty service members, veterans, and their families. Saturday visitors are likely to witness a caissons rolling behind a riderless horse with backwards boots in the stirrups. This procession is an honor reserved for high ranking officers who have served in combat.

The cemetery is built on the lands of defeated civil war General Robert E. Lee.  At its center lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, a memorial built to honor unidentified fallen service members. The Tomb is guarded with care and pride by an Honor Guard which performs a solemn ceremonial changing of the guard at the top of every hour. The Tomb is never left unattended, even during hurricanes or attack on the city.

Click through for image source.Tomb of the Unknown soldier is never left unattended.

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

Click through for image source. The Honor Guard remains at their post during fair weather and storms, guarding the Tomb of The Unknown Soldier.

The Honor Guard remains at their post during fair weather and storms.

The second President of the United States, John Adams, once said, “I must study politics and war that my sons may have liberty to study mathematics and philosophy, geography, natural history, naval architecture, navigation, commerce, and agriculture, in order to give their children a right to study painting, poetry, music, architecture, statuary, tapestry, and porcelain.”

DC lives every side of this sentiment. It is a hub for art and theater, as well as the seat of American government. Every morning, commuters in suits and badges crowd the city’s Metrorail public transit system and set about the business of shaping, enacting, and challenging public policy. During the city’s annual Gay Pride celebration, the fountain in the center of Dupont Circle overflows with bubbles and tinted water as city residents merge political activism with artistic expression and parade floats.

On Capitol Hill, Senate staffers strategize in the shadow of American sculptor Alexander Calder’s "Mountains and Clouds."  Click through for image source.

On Capitol Hill, Senate staffers work in the shadow of Alexander Calder’s “Mountains and Clouds.”

The local flavor of DC grows more pronounced in the winter months. Flash mob snowball fights break out in blizzards when social media networks are able to quickly mobilize tuned-in young professionals to flock to designated intersections, carrying signs and sporting colorful hats and scarves.

Members of Congress plod to work in snowshoes to meet with constituents when the unpredictable weather makes travel by typical means impossible. Music lovers line up at the city’s performing arts palace, the Kennedy Center, for the annual sing along of Handel’s Messiah.

John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts.Please click through for image source.

The John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, on the banks of the Potomac.

One of the pleasures of Washington is that it has four distinct seasons, each offering unique opportunities and activities. In December an Ice Harbor is built in the National Harbor complete with ice slides and below zero snow suits. (We dragged my grandfather there last year and he loved it!)

Novice and expert ice skaters enjoy skating in the seasonal rink on the National Mall’s National Gallery of Art sculpture garden. Slightly further afield there is a full array of recreational opportunities, whatever the season. In winter you can enjoy skiing, tubing, and snowboarding in Virginia, Maryland, and Pennsylvania, all an easy day-trip away.

Click through for image source. An impromptu snowball fight in Dupont Circle, a neighborhood known for its happy hour opportunities and the heart of the city’s annual summer Gay Pride festival.

An impromptu snowball fight in Dupont Circle.

Whatever the season, DC feels like home to me. It is a city of transplants who have come to make a difference in public service as well as locals whose families have lived in their neighborhood for generations. Whether new or longtime residents, people in DC are always ready to engage in a debate about the great philosophical questions of power, liberty, justice, truth, and freedom.

In taxi cabs, in line for the city’s official lunch (the “half smoke and a coke,” a hot dog and soda combination offered from food carts), and at brunch with friends, the architecture, purpose, and history of the city keeps people sharing their opinions and trying to convince one another that theirs is the correct answer. The hum of all these voices articulating different perspectives, with arguments ranging from poetic to senseless, washes over newcomers like a welcoming roar. The city wants you to join the conversation, and it won’t take no for an answer.

- EE

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For more information about what to see and do in Washington, DC, as well as for tips on where to stay and how to plan a trip, take a look at Washington.org. It’s an excellent resource filled with ideas, events, and itineraries. By clicking here you can also register to get a free Washington, DC Official Visitors Guide, a twice-yearly resource packed with the most current information on hotels, attractions, tours, restaurants, shops, and discounts.

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I was delighted this morning to learn that Victoria University of Wellington’s First Light team placed 3rd overall in the 2011 Solar Decathlon. That’s an impressive and exceptional result.

The First Light House team celebrate after their 3rd place announcement

First Light team members celebrating after the final scores were announced.

Sponsored by the US Department of Energy, the Solar Decathlon is a biennial competition that challenges entrants to build an environmentally friendly house which is then judged on ten different sets of aesthetic, efficiency, conservation, and comfort criteria. You can read all about the competition in my previous post of November 2010.

Last year the First Light crew became the first New Zealand team ever to make the Solar Decathlon finals. That entitled them to reconstruct their house this year on the National Mall in Washington DC,  to compete head-to-head against the other 19 finalists from around the United States and several other countries.

Folks queue up to check out 3rd place winners, New Zealand’s First Light House.

Washingtonians and tourists queue up to tour the First Light house.

My Embassy colleagues and I have been tracking First Light’s journey since the very beginning, and we had the great pleasure of touring the house a few months ago, just before it was shipped to DC.

I can tell you first-hand that the First Light bach is a truly impressive building structurally, aesthetically, and functionally. I knew it would impress the judges. Take another look to see what I mean:

My DC friends tell me that the Kiwi bach was very popular among the hundreds of thousands of people who visited the various houses during the competition. You can get a flavor of the energy and adventure in Washington from the First Light team’s blog.

Like First Light, the other top winners were inspired by the natural environment in their home locales. A team from Maryland University won first prize in the competition with its WaterShed house inspired by Chesapeake Bay’s ecosystem.

University of Maryland took 1st place with their WaterShed house.

The 1st place WaterShed house created by the University of Maryland team.

Second place went to the team from Purdue University for its Midwestern-inspired INhome (short for “Indiana home”).

The entry from Appalachian State University won the People’s Choice award for its Solar Homestead inspired by traditional Appalachian settlements.

Purdue University’s 2nd place-winning INhouse

Purdue University’s 2nd place INhouse.

All of the teams worked long and hard to create impressive structures. Check out the final scores to see how the teams did in each of the ten challenges in the competition. Take a look at the Department of Energy 2011 Solar Decathlon Flickr pages to see photos of all of the entrants as well as more shots of the crowds of viewers.

Congrats again to my friends from Victoria University on the great First Light showing, and thanks to my colleagues at the Department of Energy for developing and running such an important, impactful, and exciting program.

In one of the more interesting projects I’m tracking, a group of New Zealand students is preparing to build an eco-friendly Kiwi bach on the National Mall in Washington, DC.  Really. They’ve got their plot all picked out, and the blueprints are looking good.

Dubbed FirstLight, the team is composed of students from Victoria University of Wellington’s School of Architecture and Design who are participating in next year’s Solar Decathlon.

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